Colome de Terruno 2008
Ok. I promise that this will be the last flogging of my wares.
Well, for a while at least. The trouble is that when you're a
sommelier for an Argentine restaurant that is well known for
it's great steak and an entirely Argentine wine list its kind
of hard to 'get out of the house'. That said it's worth staying
in for this one.
The mountainous, northern Argentine province of Salta lays claim
to having vineyards higher than anywhere else in the world. The
highest of these are owned by the Colome winery. Sitting pretty
at 3002 metres above sea level (most skiers never get that high!).
With less atmosphere to protect the bunches, all those extra UV
rays have a similar effect on grapes as they do on skiers. They
get an embarrassing tan. The skins thicken up to protect the seed
and you're left with more flavour and colour compounds.
Colome already does a couple of fantastic wines for Gaucho but
my boss; Phil Crozier, decided they weren't enough. A big fan
of the 'typicity' of the grape, he drunkenly suggested that the
wineries owner make him an un-oaked Malbec (almost unheard of
for a fine wine). The guy and his French wine maker managed to
put up a bit of a fight but my boss can be very persuasive
whilst smacked up on Malbec and finally got his own way.
And what a way.
Colome de Terruno 2008 is a Malbec with a dash of Cabernet
Sauvignon and completely un-oaked. The high altitude is apparent
the second it hits the glass. A deep, inky purple in colour.
The aromas are simply intoxicating. Pure fruit leaps out, intense
blackberry jam with bunches of violets to boot. Explosive in the
mouth the fruit approaches lip-smacking proportions, almost
chutney-esque in style before subduing into a soft finish
with slight spice and tannins coming from the Cab-Sauv.
Blissful with the meaty iron of a rare rump, divine with powerful
cheeses. Go crazy and get a blue cheese sauce on that backside
for pure Malbec/beef heaven. After all, this wine is made
from the grapes that are closest to god.
£22.15
Cavas De Gaucho
25 Swallow Street
London
W1B 4QR
Or pop into our new Charlotte Street
restaurant for a taste on me!
